My favourite and most used tool , I have had this little quad socket spanner since the early 6o’s, I recently found another in a car boot sale. Only five inches overall it covers from 1/8 to 5/16 whit. It is very unlikely you would strip any threads with this tool. Used every time I work on the car. The green tape identifies it as a tool out of BBM69’s toolbox. Having the tools marked, means I do not loose them when assisting others on the road.
A good Whitwort/BSF socket set is a must.
Our three wheel braces, one in the car, one in the workshop and one on the shelf. Note this is another tool allowing little leverage, essential to avoid damage to the nuts and studs.
The flywheel puller.
Kneeling pads are essential for me.
This lead block is useful as a counter weight when driving out cotter pins, I have drilled a hole in one end to facility this.
Some drifts, the yellow ones are old copper alloy resistance welding electrodes.
I inherited this patent valve spring tool from Dianne’s Dad, Monty. Also shown is an Austin pattern lifter.
A simple gauge to allow the backlash between the crown wheel and pinion to be measured. It should be 1/16 ” at 7 inches from the centre line.
When working inside the car I remove the front seats, it only means removing four bolts and makes working so much easier.
Tommy bar. Austin tool. 2H86
Old and new, the bicycle pump is very efficient, but the old one still works well and is always in the car.
A modern set of tyre levers and an original one.
My homemade toe in gauge.
A chain hoist for engine changing.
A home made sling for lifting the engine with the above hoist.
Nanette dust brushes are indespensible for safely removing dust off paintwork. It is the first thing Dianne does when we arrive at any meeting or show. Gets the dust off before bystanders have a chance of scratching the paint.
The oils and greases used on BBM69. The Rust Arrest is similar to Waxoil, a rust and corrosion inhibitor. The paraffin is used for cleaning and degreasing.
Our two grease guns, old and new. The new one is cartridge charged. Monty, Dianne’s dad, insisted on plenty of grease in all the points, to minimise wear.
The compression gauge, invaluable for checking the condition of the valves, rings and cylinder bore.
An engineers stethascope, makes all the rattles and whirring very loud.
This is the kit I use for checking the rear hub nuts are tight. The socket was bought, brand new, from Halfords on the high Street. note it is called a HUB NUT SOCKET, made for Austin Sevens?
The tools in action checking the hub nut is tight. Note the axle stands (four needed) and trolley jack, all essential for safe working.
This tool is used to lock the crown wheel when checking the backlash between it and the pinion. It fits into the oil filler hole.
I have started packing and identifying varius items that I am familiar with, that others may think of as scrap! I seem to have so many odd or home made items that do not appear to have an obvious function, but actually make life with BBM69 easier. The rod in the axle kit fits through the cover bolt holes and is used to move the adjusters. The brass plug screws into the oil filler hole to imobilise the crown wheel when checking backlash.
An Austin front hub cap spanner.
My homemade spring pin removal tool. It is a sliding hammer with a screw thread in the plain end to screw onto the spring pin.
The safety equipment stowed in the car. A normal dry powder extinquisher and a modern chemical one, called a fire stick. Also an electronic flare. Not shown are two reflective vests.
A setof feeler gauges, small rule and a tyre pressure gauge. Always in the car.
Tyre tread gauges.
I have had this engine diagnostic instrument since the early 60’s.
A trickle charger is on hand all the time on the lifting beam.
The strobe timing light.
A spark tester, another very useful tool. I modified this one to work with our plugs and leads, with knurled nuts.
A can of compressed gas, sold for cleaning electrical equipment. I use it for blowing out the carburettor jets.
An old brake drum cut away to help get the shoes fitted parallel to the drum. Alongside is a shoe that was not fitted correctly, half the braking power lost. Adjustment is achieved by carefully bending the lug on the backplate. sometimes I find that getting the shoe into place can be difficult.
A pipe bending tool for 1/4″ fuel pipe. Easy to use and good results. One inch minimum radius. Anneal the pipe before bending.